I wanted to put crown molding in my laundry room — I thought it would really finish off the room. And my father in law was so nice to come over and show me how to do it. I thought it would be fun to share some tips and tricks on Crown Molding — in case you want to put some in your home.
And because it can be a little tricky with the angles – I thought having a handyman with 30+ years of experience give us tips would be a great idea.
- The next thing is to mark off all of the studs in the wall and ceiling with masking tape.
- Here is a great resource for finding angles for crown molding — Dewalt Crown Molding Cheat Sheet.
- Also, invest in a compound miter saw OR borrow one from a friend for this project!!
- Some tips on using the miter saw:
- For the inside and outside angles, set the miter saw to bevel angle of the compound miter saw at 33.85 degrees.
- Note — Inside molding — You will always be able to see the saw cut, and the pointed end will always be at the bottom of the crown molding.
- Note – Outside molding — You will not be able to see the saw cut, and the pointed end will always be the top of the crown molding.
- Measure the first piece of crown molding that will be installed with a straight cut and no angle. Mark where the cut will need to be made. Turn the molding upside down and slide it into the miter saw with the top of the molding along the base of the saw and the bottom against the “fence” of the saw.
- Measure and mark the first corner piece. If you have a protractor you can measure the exact angle of all of the corners. Slide it in the miter saw in the same manner as the previous piece. Turn the blade of the saw to half of the recorded measurement. For a 90-degree angle, turn the saw to 45 degrees for the first corner piece. Cut through the molding at the exact mark
- Do this with both pieces of molding — cutting the next piece at the opposite angle. Then hold them together to make sure they fit together correctly before you nail them in place.
- It’s helpful to test the cuts on scrap pieces of molding first.
- Check every piece of molding to make sure it has the same spring angle, width and thickness or your cuts may be off.
- Be sure to — get a friend to help you. You will need a second pair of hands to hold the molding while you nail it down. Use two ladders, so you each have one to stand on.
- Next, start at the front of the room and work backwards. That way the longest section of the molding will be at the front, witht he seam hopefully where people can’t see it. If you have to have a seam on a wall, use a 45-degree cut and center the seam in the middle of a stud.
- Nail the molding in with either hammer or a nail gun. Once in, use a nail set to push the nails into the molding. And put a little caulking on top to hide the nail holes. Once dry, sand smooth before painting.
- Subtract 1/4″ of space when measuring the pieces that fit together in the seams, so there is a little extra room for the corners to fit together. You can caulk the gaps.And if this seems too complicated, you can get something called corner blocks which fit on the corners over the molding and make it so you don’t have to deal with the corners of your crown molding! Here’s a tutorial on how to do that at DecorChick.
- A note about caulking — be sure to use caulk and not spackle when smoothing the seams in your molding. Spackle can crack as the house shifts. And when caulking, use a wet paper towel to smooth the seam or your fingers. The smoother the caulk, the less sanding is required. You will need to sand and paint the seams 3-4 times.
- Another note — some hardware stores offer molding that is pre-painted. Awesome!! But you will still probably need to go over it with a coat of paint after you hang it and caulk. The caulk will dull whatever finish is on the molding. But pre-primed and pre-painted molding will save you a lot of time and effort.
I hope these tips and tricks have helped.
Here are more resources for cutting Crown Molding:
Here’s the laundry room before: